Pigments are specially formulated ‘inks’ which are implanted into the skin during the permanent makeup procedure, so it’s important to choose the right pigment in order to produce realistic results for your clients.

One of the biggest misconceptions around permanent makeup is that tattoo ink can be used or that pigments and tattoo ink are the same. We have a blogpost here dedicated to all the key differences between to the two and why it is so important to only use pigment in any PMU procedure.

There are a few key factors to consider when choosing the right pigment for your client, so we have broken it down into easy to follow steps below.

1.   Colour Theory

2.    Undertones: cool vs. warm

3.    The Fitzpatrick Scale

4.    Client’s Preference

5.    Choosing a brand

6.    Mixing & Modifying

7.    Pigments used at top up



Colour Theory

We have a whole blogpost dedicated to colour theory as it is such an integral part of permanent make-up. Having a good understanding of colour theory is going to be the foundation for choosing the right pigment for microblading on every client.

During microblading, the pigment is implanted in the skin meaning that healed results will always be a combination of the pigment colour and the undertones of the client’s skin. Understanding colour theory will allow an artist to achieve the perfect harmony between the skin undertones and the pigment to produce the best results. If an artist does not have adequate training and understanding of colour theory, healed results can be disastrous.

Even when using high-quality pigments and shades which appear to match the brow hair colour, the undertones of the client’s skin play a key role in how the microblading will appear once healed.



Undertones: cool vs. warm

Most clients will either have cool or warm undertones to their skin, however some may be neutral.

If a client has cool undertones, it is important to use a warm toned pigment to neutralise any blue or ashy tones and produce natural results – and vice versa. Those with neutral complexions are fortunate in that they will suit warm or cool toned pigments.

Using warm pigments on a warm client can result in healed results being orange-toned and cool pigments on cool skin can produce a grey, ashy result. Therefore, a full assessment of skin type is paramount before beginning any microblading treatment.



The Fitzpatrick Scale

This is a popular tool amongst permanent makeup artists to classify skin types. Originally developed by Thomas Fitzpatrick in 1975, the skin types 1 to 6 listed on the scale indicate how much melanin a client naturally has in their skin.



Some microblading artists will ask clients to complete a questionnaire prior to beginning the treatment, which will indicate their Fitzpatrick skin type. More experienced artists may be able to identify the client’s skin type without needing a questionnaire depending on their confidence and colour theory knowledge. Others may use the colour of client’s veins under their skin as an indication – purple/blue appearing veins often indicate cool skin tone and green veins indicate warm.

Experienced artists will also build up knowledge of knowing which pigments suit which skin type, though a lot of pigment sets include colour charts which can be used as a guide.

Brands such as Permablend x Clinical Academy have even developed collections based on the Fitzpatrick scale to make pigment selection even easier.



Client’s Preference

During consultation, it is useful to ask clients about their own preference. Do they fill in their brows? If so, what shade do they use? Do they tint their brows? Do they prefer their brows dark and bold or soft and subtle?

As a microblading artist with adequate knowledge of colour theory, you will know what shades will suit your client once you have assessed their skin type, but it is important to take their preferences into account before making any selections.



Choosing a pigment brand

Choosing a pigment brand to use can be confusing as there are so many reputable and trusted on the market today. When shopping at Killer Beauty, you can rest assured that we only stock the highest quality pigments that have been rigorously tested and are used by industry leaders across the globe.

Some of the brands we stock include Permablend, Li Pigments, Tina Davies Professional, Evenflo and many more. All reputable brands offer stable pigments, which heal true to colour and are easy to work with.

Which brand you opt for will usually depend on personal preference and most artists would try out a few different brands first to identify their favourite. Some artists opt to use different shades from different brands – it is entirely your choice and depends on what works well for you and your clients!



Mixing & modifying

As a microblading artist, you may sometimes need to mix or modify pigments, depending on the client’s hair colour and skin type. A lot of high-quality pigments come pre-mixed and can be used neat but on occasions, artists may wish to add a drop or two of another colour to get the perfect shade.

In this instance, it is always advisable to start with a lighter pigment and add a drop of a darker shade. It is also advised not to add too much of the dark pigment at the initial treatment. A darker shade can always be used at top up if the desired result is not achieved initially. You can always add depth but if pigment is too dark, it is very difficult to lighten without removal.

Modifiers, also known as correctors, can be mixed in with pigments to neutralise any unwanted tones and they are usually used during the top-up appointment. Many reputable pigment brands also sell correctors, which usually come in shades of orange (to correct blue/green tones), yellow (to correct blue/purple tones) and green (to correct red/orange tones). Some experienced artists also use modifiers neat when carrying out correction work on a client with previous microblading with unwanted tones before beginning a new treatment.



Pigments used at top up

Your client’s top up or colour boost appointment is the perfect opportunity to assess how your original pigment selection has healed on the client’s skin. Has it healed as desired or is it too light? Are there any unwanted tones present in their healed results?

As advised previously, pigment mixing is a great tool to add more depth to the colour at top up and darken the brows. If you previously added one drop of a darker shade to your pigment, you may wish to add 2 or 3 drops at top up to achieve the desired effect.

Modifiers are also a great tool at top up to stabilise the brow colour and ensure that the results are as natural as possible. Most manufacturers will advise which tones the modifier is designed to neutralise but if you are unsure, you can always refer to the colour wheel from your colour theory training:



Simply locate the tones/colours you wish to neutralise, and the colour directly opposite will indicate the correct modifier shade. For example: purple or blue undertones will require a yellow or orange toned modifier. How much modifier you use will depend on how prominent the unwanted tones are in the healed results and what you have been taught during your training.

If you are ever unsure about any correcting at the top up appointment, speak with your trainer about the best course of action. It is not advisable for beginners in microblading to correct previous work by another artist as it can be quite a complex and difficult task, especially if you do not know what pigments were used originally. Some previous work also cannot be neutralised through correction and those clients will need to be referred for removal before any new treatment can begin.


There you have it! Our step by step guide on how to choose the right pigment for microblading. We hope that this guide, accompanied by the amazing selection of pigments available at Killer Beauty, will help you find your favourite brands and pigments that heal beautifully on your clients!