Learning how to choose the right needle cartridge can be a little overwhelming when you’re just getting started as a permanent make-up artist. With so many technical specifications, such as diameter and configuration, it can be easy to get a little lost!

But with our handy guide, we have made it easy for you to understand how to pick the best PMU cartridge needles depending on the treatment you’re carrying out, your client’s skin type, and the pigment implantation! 



Selecting the Ideal Needle for Your PMU Procedure

As you might already know, the treatment type can influence the needle cartridge you choose. Each procedure requires a different needle configuration (the arrangement and grouping of needles on the cartridge) and needle size (the thickness of an individual needle within the configuration). 

Some needle configurations and what treatment they’re best for include:

  • Round liner configurations are ideal for creating precise lines such as hair strokes or lip lines and filling in very small areas. They can also be used for shading and pixel work, depending on preference!
  • Round shader configurations feature multiple needles grouped together and are useful for packing colour and creating light shading for a pixelated effect in brow and lip treatments. They can also be used for thicker, more prominent line work.
  • Magnum needles are useful for working on a natural curve in the treatment, such as the eyelid, brow arch, or lips. They feature two rows of needles grouped together with a slight curve and implant pigment more efficiently – but can increase risk of trauma so be sure to practice on fake skin and get used to these first.
  • Flat needles are suitable for creating effective and precise geometric designs, such as well-defined shapes and lines in eyebrow treatments, eyeliner procedures, or lip contouring. 

Ensuring you choose the most appropriate option will give you the desired outcome you’re wanting to achieve as a PMU artist! 

Matching Needle Cartridges to Your PMU Technique

Are you providing detailed work? Will you be shading and filling in broader spaces? Or are you working on creating really precise lines? These are all questions you should consider when determining the correct choice of needle size.

Generally, smaller cartridge needles are preferred for intricate work and larger needles are more suitable for getting a broader coverage. Your selection will also come down to your training, your client and your personal preference. But don’t be afraid to explore new configurations on practice skin to try something new!

The different needle sizes in cartridges are represented by a combination of numbers and letters. For example, if you see 1RL, it means it’s a round liner configuration with 1 round liner needle. Alternatively, if you see 5RL, it’s a round liner configuration with 5 needles grouped together! 

Some needle sizes and what style of treatment they’re best for include:

  • Fine needles, such as 1RL or 3RL, are perfect for detailed work, such as when creating fine eyebrow hair strokes, crisp lip lines or eyeliner.
  • Medium needles, such as 5RL or 7RL, are versatile, being great for both precise lines and filling in larger areas such as eyebrow shading or working on the body of the lip.
  • Magnum or larger needles, such as 9M1 or 11M1, are generally great for shading and filling in broader spaces in treatments such as areola restoration or scar coverage.

So to choose the right needle cartridge for you, you need to consider the specific procedure, client preferences, and the effect you aim to achieve.

Adapting Needle Choices for Different Skin Types

Everyone’s skin is unique and needs to be treated and handled differently to produce the best outcome from any PMU procedure. A client’s skin type can react in different ways to needle configurations and sizes so it’s important to choose a cartridge based on how the skin absorbs and retains pigment!

With oily skin, for example, there is a risk of the pigment dispersing in the skin, so deeper application with a larger diameter needle size may be more suitable to implant pigment more effectively.

For sensitive skin, it’s important to work gently and lightly with a smaller needle configuration to reduce the risk of trauma to the skin. However, very small diameters can be more traumatic on a sensitive skin  so ensure you’re considering all technical specifications of your needle for the canvas you’re working on!



Optimising Pigment Implantation with the Right Needle

Both needle diameter and configuration can impact the pigment implantation process. For precise and detailed work, such as lip lining, where you need the pigment to be deposited in a very controlled way, it’s better to go for a smaller needle size and configuration with one or few needle groupings. In this instance, you could choose a single needle configuration or very fine round liner, for example.

For procedures like lip shading or eyeliner shading, configurations like round shaders or magnums are often more suitable. These can cover larger areas more efficiently, providing a more even distribution of pigment.

Needle taper can also play a part in the pigment implantation and risk of trauma to the skin. Medium to longer taper needles have a longer ‘point’ which means they create smaller punctures in the skin – this can result in less pigment implantation in each pass but also reduced trauma.

Short tapers implant pigment quicker and more effectively but can be more traumatic on the skin. If you are noticing excess fluid or redness during the treatment or the client is expiring discomfort, assess the needle cartridge you are using and potentially make a switch to a more gentle configuration, diameter or taper.

Top Needle Cartridge Brands to Consider for PMU

When choosing needle cartridges, it’s important to consider whether they’re compatible with your PMU machine. Different machines have specific needle systems, such as screw-on, click-on, or twist-lock. However, if you choose universal cartridges, they can fit within a variety of machines that are compatible with universal cartridges. 

For example, Vertix Pico generally have a universal connection which means they can be used with any rotary PMU machine that accepts universal cartridges. Stellar 2.0, Goldeneye, and Tina Davies cartridges also feature a universal connection.

In terms of machines, Microbeau, Perma Blend, and Goldeneye are all compatible with universal cartridges.

Make sure to research the specifications of each PMU machine and needle cartridge before purchasing to ensure it’s compatible with your other equipment.

How Expertise and Personal Preference Influence Needle Selection 

As you progress through your PMU career, you’ll find your experience might influence the needle cartridges you choose, and you’ll develop your own personal preference through experimentation and client feedback!

The training you undergo will also provide you with extensive knowledge of needle types, techniques for using them, and safety standards so you can ensure the best results while minimising any risks to clients.

By combining the knowledge and skills gained through training and experience, you can make informed decisions about needle cartridges that enhance the quality and safety of your PMU procedures.



Browse the selection of PMU needle cartridges we have available here at Killer Beauty and select the best option for you today!